Guatemala has to be the quickest trip we have ever planned. The kids were off school for winter break, and unbeknownst to us, neither of them had any sports commitments. Unfortunately, we found that information out rather late, so planning an extensive trip somewhere over the holidays was tricky. We had a week to plan a trip.
I heard so much about Guatemala recently, and as I knew it was a quick flight from California, I figured that might just work with our schedule. Throw in two major holidays to juggle around, last-minute flight options, and we settled on a five-day trip to Guatemala.
While we would have loved to have spent more time in this beautiful country, we took what we could get. We spent our first three days in Lake Atitlan and the last two in Antigua. We planned it this way due primarily to flight schedules and wanting to be closer to the airport on our departure day. If you can spend an entire week in Guatemala, I recommend either adding one to two days to the Lake Atitlan/Antigua portion of your visit or adding on another destination within the country.
Alright, so on to the fun stuff. Here is how to have an epic week in Guatemala:
Day 1 – Arrival Day to Lake Atitlan
Upon arrival at the La Aurora International Guatemala Airport, make your way to Lake Atitlan. It’s about a three-hour drive from Guatemala City to Panajachel (the central hub of Lake Atitlan). Either grab an Uber or hire a private driver ahead of time. As it’s a long drive, I recommend booking someone in advance, so you know the costs upfront.
Once you arrive at Panajachel, enjoy some downtime at your hotel, or walk around along the main street, Calle Santander, to get a good sense of the beautiful items these vendors sell. A few restaurants and bars have views of the lake and are great places to grab a drink at sunset.
If you are staying somewhere besides Panajachel, most likely, you will need to take a boat to your destination. Check with your accommodation, but you will probably need to walk down to the main dock and get on the local boat to the village where you are staying.
Keep in mind that the public boats (lanchas) go in a particular direction and make various stops. For example, if heading to the village of San Juan by public boat, you will go via Santa Cruz and San Marcos before arriving at San Juan. However, if you are staying in San Pedro, a public boat goes directly across the lake without additional stops. Cost is Q25 for foreigners for the public boats. Don’t be surprised if the locals pay less; that’s just how it is. Also, most boats will not depart until almost full of passengers, so bring some patience as you may be waiting for the boat to fill up, though I think we waited at most 15 minutes.
If you don’t have the luxury of time or patience, you can hire a private boat to shuttle you directly to the town where you are staying.
Day 2 – Explore the Villages of Lake Atitlan: San Marcos, San Juan, and Santiago
Lake Atitlan, surrounded by three volcanoes, is the deepest lake in Central America. The views are truly extraordinary here. There are no loud speedboats filled with tourists speeding past, nor are there any major watersports on the lake. The primary watersports tend to be kayaking, paddleboarding, or fishing from a dingy near the beaches. We did see one kite surfer in the middle of the lake, but that was it. It’s pretty much perfect serenity.
One of the best tips we heard before our trip was to visit as many of the eleven villages as possible to understand better the different communities living around the lake. So, on our first day, we hired a private guide to tour us around these three villages: San Marcos La Laguna, San Juan La Laguna, and Santiago Atitlan. San Marcos is considered the “hippy” or yoga village, and immediately when you step off the boat, you are transported into a small community filled with quaint hostels, yoga retreats, and a zen-like vibe. We immediately felt a sense of calm when entering this village.
If you are adventurous and are itching to get in the water, there is a small nature reserve here, Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve. It costs Q15 to enter, which gives you access to the trails, overlooks of the lake, and a platform to jump off into the refreshing water below. As we were here quite early in the day and it was still a bit chilly, we decided to skip this. But as our boat passed by the platform, I started to second guess our decision!
Our next stop was to the village of San Juan, which is where we spent most of our time. We participated in a hands-on demonstration of chocolate making and, of course, tried a bit! We visited a local weaving cooperative where we learned how the local women use traditional Mayan techniques passed down from generations to create beautiful handmade items. We walked past stunning art murals painted throughout the village, and we climbed a hill to see views of the village from the observation deck above. It costs Q30 per person, and it takes about 15 minutes to reach the top. The kids definitely complained about this short steep hike, as we were only in flip-flops. But the views from above definitely made up for it.
The third and final town we visited was Santiago Atitlan. It is the largest community in Lake Atitlan but the hardest to reach. One of the draws here for many tourists is seeing Maximon and observing a ceremony. Maximon is the town’s deity, or saint, who many local Mayans worship. People will come far distances to worship, pray, and participate in a ceremony with Maximon. We did do this, or rather, we observed a ceremony taking place when we arrived. And, I’ll be honest, it wasn’t the kids’ favorite moment. We felt in a way we were trespassing on a private ceremony. However, we couldn’t have understood even if we had put our best Spanish listening skills to use!
The entire day lasted about 8 hours, though it was supposed to be about 5-6 hours. With the additional hike to Mirador Kiaq’Aiswaan and my indecisiveness on what to buy, much to my kids and husband’s dismay, it lasted a bit longer.
Day 3 – Explore Lake Atitlan by Boat and by Pickup Truck: Santa Cruz, San Antonio, and Santa Catarina
We woke up quite early to make our way to Santa Cruz La Laguna, a tranquil lush lakeside community with the most incredible views from the town atop the hill. We hoped to paddleboard here, and we heard the best time to go was in the early morning when the water is most calm. Upon exiting the dock, follow the trail to the left, and you will find a couple of places that rent kayaks and paddleboards. If you are feeling quite adventurous, you can even go on a guided kayaking tour along the coast to explore a few villages. Or do as we did, and rent the SUPs for one hour to explore on your own.
To explore more of the town on the hill, you’ll want to take a tuk tuk up to the village above. You can walk it, but it’s a steep walk. We decided to take the tuk tuk up and walk down so we could experience both.
Many people visit Santa Cruz to participate in a cooking class with Claudia at Amigos de Santa Cruz. We had hoped to do this, but unfortunately, there were no times available. Please make sure you book in advance if you want to do a cooking class here. Were we bummed we couldn’t do the cooking class? Of course! However, the views from her cooking school are some of the best we saw on that trip. So if you are unable to take a cooking class, you can always come here to enjoy breakfast and a cup of coffee on the rooftop deck and enjoy the stunning lake views.
(Another cooking class that receives fantastic reviews is with Anita at the Mayan Kitchen, in the town of San Pedro, so keep that in mind if visiting the village of San Pedro.)
After our time in Santa Cruz, we made our way back to Panajachel for our next adventure. This time we were off to explore two more local communities, but not by boat. Rather via the back of a pickup truck – an authentic local transport adventure. We surprised the kids with this activity, and the look on their smiling faces said it all.
We walked to the edge of town and waited at a stop until a pickup truck stopped. We climbed into the back of the pickup truck joining a few other locals for our ride to the villages. You can stand or sit on the benches in the back of the pickup truck. There is nothing quite like having the wind blowing in your hair, riding like the locals do daily, and experiencing the villages with a feeling of freedom and awe.
The two towns we visited were San Antonio Palopo and Santa Catarina Palopo. Both textiles communities, yet San Antonio also specializes in making pottery. While weaving is important to each community, what they create varies from village to village. In fact, many of the villages have their own town “color,” such as purple, woven into the traditional clothing worn.
We had hired a private guide to escort us on this adventure. I do recommend hiring a private guide if you can. Not only will you be shown areas of the villages you might not have discovered on your own, but you are also helping to support the guide make a living. Plus, the local guides’ knowledge of the communities they have lived in is worth any penny you will spend. Listening to our kids speak Spanish and learn from our guides is one of those moments we, and they, will always treasure.
After three days, it was time to depart Lake Atitlan and head to Antigua. Ideally, we would have liked two more days at the lake to relax and do some other activities around the lake. If you have more than three days in Lake Atitlan, here are some suggestions of other things you could do:
- Go Paragliding over Lake Atitlan
- Hike at sunrise to Indian Nose
- Take a day trip to Chichicastenango Market
- Practice yoga at one of the retreats in San Marcos
- Visit the Nature Reserve
- Take immersive Spanish classes (many people will stay for a week or even longer just taking Spanish courses in these towns)
Day 4 – Explore Antigua
Today we departed for the historic town of Antigua. As it takes approximately 2.5 hours to drive to Antigua, we left Panajachel in the early morning to have as much time as possible today to explore the town. Antigua is a gorgeous historic city, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which has undergone massive destruction and renovation from the 1773 earthquake. It’s definitely a walking town, so put on those walking shoes and get ready to explore.
We spent the first part of the day wandering the town. Our first stop was to the iconic Arco de Santa Catalina, where yes, you will want to get a photo under it. Did you know the arch was built as a walkway, so the nuns didn’t have to cross the street?
Antigua is a town filled with churches, convents, museums, and a beautiful central plaza. It might be hard to see every church and monastery, and your kids might be tired if you try to see all, so pick the ones you want to see most and visit them. Here are some of the ones we saw and others we would recommend. All are within walking distance from the arch:
Church and Convent of Las Capuchinas – this convent lasted only 37 years as an earthquake destroyed it. But they have beautifully restored it, and if you want to capture some photos here (and if you have teens, trust me, they will want to), this is the place to do so.
Convent of Santa Teresa de Jesus – the history of this convent is fascinating. First built as a convent to house nuns, it became a winery, a patio for drying coffee, and even a men’s prison after devastating earthquakes. Talk about using the space wisely!
San Francisco Church and Convent – is one of the largest churches in Antigua. Yet, it was also destroyed partly from the earthquake. Unfortunately, the 1773 earthquake damaged quite a bit of Antigua.
La Iglesia de la Merced – this might be one of the most photographed churches in Antigua, primarily due to its proximity to the Santa Catalina Arch.
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral – this cathedral might be the easiest to find as it’s located directly across from the main square. Behind the cathedral are ruins from past churches that used to stand here. The arches that remain from a partially destroyed building are one of the highlights to see here.
San Juan de Dios Convent and Hospital – is located next to a beautiful park and Tanque La Union, the colonial public washbasins. A priest beloved by all founded this first hospital. Today, the building serves as a social center for those in need.
Convent and Museo de Santo Domingo – this was once the largest and richest monasteries in the area but was severely damaged in the 1773 earthquake. It is now home to a beautiful hotel, and the historic ruins, grounds, and crypts are a must-see.
After much exploring, our pit stops for the day were Frieda’s restaurant and a small ice cream stand near Parque Central (and yes, maybe ice cream did come before lunch). That’s the beauty of travel, right – there are no rules!
Our final stop of the day was to Ek Chuah for a chocolate-making class. This class completely surpassed our expectations. We signed up for the 90-minute class, which included a brief history of how the Mayans made chocolate, followed by a hands-on chocolate-making class for only Q150 each. There is also a shorter 45-minute class if you choose. My appreciation for chocolate, which was already at an all-time high, went to a whole new level. If you are a chocolate lover or want to learn more about the chocolate-making process, then this class is for you.
Day 5 – Hike an Active Volcano
Today was one of the days I was most excited to experience. I mean, how many times can you say you’ve hiked an active volcano? Now you should note there are two active volcanoes near Antigua. Pacaya, which is the one we did, and Fuego. To experience Volcan Fuego, you hike up Acatenango (an inactive volcano), which can be a strenuous two-day hike. Once you reach the summit, you will see Fuego nearby, flowing lava. On the other hand, Pacaya can be done as a half-day outing and is quite kid-friendly while also offering incredible views.
Pacaya is about an hour’s drive from Antigua. As it’s an active volcano, you will be required to hire a guide for approximately Q200. There is also an entrance fee of Q50 per person.
The hike is about three miles roundtrip and is rather steep. Local children will sell walking sticks which you can rent for Q1, which I highly recommend. You also can hire horses if you prefer to ride versus walk. The cost to ride the horses is Q200 each.
Once you reach the top, you will walk out amongst the solidified lava (this is where the walking sticks come in handy) to admire the incredible views. You may even see Fuego erupting in the distance. Or course, one of the best experiences for the kids will probably be roasting marshmallows over the open volcanic vents. Nothing like roasting a marshmallow on an active volcano! After your volcano adventure, you’ll head down the trail and continue back to Antigua.
You can spend the rest of the afternoon visiting a few more sites in Antigua. Or maybe make your way to Cerro de la Cruz. It’s about a 20-minute walk to reach this hillside, which features a stone cross and Antigua’s most glorious unobstructed views. A great way to capture a different viewpoint of the town you have just explored.
A terrific end to your day would be to have a drink at one of the local rooftop bars. We enjoyed our final night in Guatemala at sunset at Antigua Brewing’s rooftop bar. With views of the historic town in every direction we looked and Fuego erupting in the distance, it was a perfect ending to an incredible trip.
While we spent most of our time in Antigua and at Pacaya, there are quite a few other things to do if you have more time:
- Visit Hobbitenango
- Hike Acatenango
- Go on a coffee tour
- Visit a local artisan market
Day 6-7 – Tikal, Flores, Semuc Champey, or the Beach
For your last two days in Guatemala, you have a couple of options. You can either add these extra days to your Lake Atitlan or Antigua visits. Or, perhaps you would like to see a different part of the country. If so, I would recommend visiting either Tikal/Flores, Semuc Champey, or the coast to explore the beaches.
Tikal/Flores– you can take a direct flight from Guatemala City to Flores. Spend the afternoon exploring the island on foot and enjoy the sunset views over the lake. Get an early morning start the next day to explore Tikal. Tikal is home to the largest ceremonial and city center of the ancient Mayans and is a designated UNESCO World Heritage site.
Semuc Champey – it takes about 6-8 hours to drive to Sempuc Champey, so you will need to plan to spend at least one night there. Witness the spectacular, natural pools from above, then head down to the sparkling turquoise water and enjoy your time tubing, swimming, or trying out the rope swing. There are also caves, complete with bats and waterfalls that you can explore with a guide.
Monterrico Beach – If you would like to end your trip at the beach, you may consider spending time at Monterrico, the black volcanic sand beach, and laid-back beach town. Located about 3.5 hours from Guatemala City, it’s a doable drive for a two-night stay. Depending on the time of year you visit, there may even be the option of observing the baby turtles’ release into the ocean.
Now that you know all the fun things to do once you get there, here are a few logistical details to consider when traveling to Guatemala.
How to Get to Guatemala
Guatemala is easily accessible from the US. Quick and direct, which is a great way to start the trip! There are direct flights from Los Angeles, New York, Houston, DC, and Atlanta, all three to five hours of flight time.
How to Get Around
In my opinion, if traveling with a family the best way to get around is via private transport. It costs approximately Q950 for private transportation from the airport to Lake Atitlan, Q750 from Lake Atitlan to Antigua, and Q250 from Antigua to the airport. And remember if you are staying in Lake Atitlan, you won’t need a car as many of the villages are accessible via boat only.
Where to Stay
There are a variety of accommodation options in Guatemala. For those looking for a hostel or homestay-type experience, these are abundant in Antigua and the villages of Lake Atitlan. (San Pedro in Lake Atitlan is quite popular for this type of accommodation). Some of these may even offer Spanish immersion classes. There are reasonably priced boutique hotels in both locations. If you want a luxurious villa on the water’s edge in Lake Atitlan, that’s an option too. Regardless of where you stay, you will be welcomed warmly by all the locals.
We stayed at Casa Santa Rosa Hotel Boutique in Antigua. It’s a nine-room hotel, within walking distance to everywhere in Antigua. They serve a delicious breakfast and have a lovely garden oasis to enjoy. A couple of other places I would recommend are:
We stayed at Porta Hotel Del Lago in Panajachel, Lake Atitlan. It’s a larger hotel with a pool, gym, and on-site restaurant. It’s also conveniently located near restaurants, the docks, and the main shopping street, Calle Santander. If you are looking to stay in some of the other villages around Lake Atitlan, I would consider exploring:
When to Go
The best time to go is during the dry season, which runs from November to April. Although the county does experience pleasant temperatures year-round, making it a desirable location for most of the year. September and October tend to be the rainiest time of the year, so I would advise not traveling those months if you can. The off-season in May-August will generally have lower-priced accommodation options, though you may experience some rain showers in the afternoon.
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As you can see, there is so much that Guatemala offers. Wherever your interests lie, we hope Guatemala will capture your heart as it did for us. Guatemala seems to be one of those under-the-radar places that is quickly catching the world’s attention. We hope you can plan a trip here soon and experience all the beauty and wonder of this country.
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